Visualized on an earthy yet imaginary set-up, composed of a white-ivory cotton silk ‘Spathoto’ veil hung on a modest wooden radio antenna rising into the Aegean’s blue panorama, ‘Mycenae’ collection by Marios Schwab is inspired by the Late Bronze Age of prosperity and gold. The collection attempts to convey the manifold presence of the peculiar craftsmanship, the skillful goldwork, the frescoes, and the multiculturalism which defined the Mycenaean temperament.
Wrap and fold elements, dissected panels, and corset harnesses create new volumes for a flawless figure. Silhouettes cut in Psi (Ψ) and Phi (Φ) shapes consolidating zero-waste techniques, resemble the clay figurines dating back to 1450-1100 BC. Boat necks and the characteristic Schwab lasso lashing neckline blend alongside completely bare or scoop backs with crisscrossing wide straps. Unexpected draping alters the archetypal ‘Daphne’ scarf to a blouson or mini dress. Surface effects abound as swirling embroideries simulating antiquities of the National Archaeological Museum, enrich the bodice or climb up from the skirt’s hem. Dresses are accentuated by gold-plated rectangular patches reminiscent of fragments of the body armor plates. Various components of symbolic significance define the collection in its entirety.
The collection is composed of light, fluid layers of cotton silk and linen blends, rami, silk georgette, metallic micro-pleated twill, jersey, and a silk gazar with golden thread to recreate the ‘Crocus’ dress. Its palette diverges from summer neutrals of gold, white, and ivory to the distinctive Mycenaean shots of terracotta, burgundy, navy blue, and the versatile Z+D combo of black and white. The signature ‘Spathoto’ silk has been woven in three different stripe combinations from aqua, turquoise, and navy to gold sand-dune and moss green on two bases of ivory silk and -the new one- of ivory cotton-silk, resulting in airy and easy-to-wear light tailoring.
Artisanal sandals and bags are crafted in smooth leather with the season’s decorative prints and embroideries. Selected pieces, in partnership with Alexandra Bissa, are trimmed with colorfully handwoven detail as a bold stamp. The accessories collection is highlighted by the mini straw ‘Stamna’ bag enhanced by a woven harnessing element, referencing Mycenaean pottery. Gold-plated jewelry depicting allegorical motifs and figures, hanging in statement earrings, pendants, and chokers.
